SARAH TYSON RORER
SOUVENIR COOK BOOK
The ICE CREAMS
To make good Philadelphia ice cream, use only the best
materials. Avoid gelatine, arrow root, or any other thick-
ening substance. Good pure cream, ripe fruit, or the best
canned in winter, and granulated sugar, make a perfect ice
Fruit, and fruit flavorings, should be added after the
cream is frozen. The best ice cream is made by first scald-
ing the cream and dissolving in it while hot the sugar.
When raw cream is frozen, the flavoring is not so prominent,
and the cream has a frozen, snowy taste, and is never per-
fectly smooth and velvety. Cheaper ice creams are usually
made in this way, as they swell to double their original bulk.
Before turning the mixture into the freezing-can, see
that the point of the dasher is properly adjusted into the
little socket in the bottom of the can, then pour in the
mixture, put on the cover, adjust the crank, and give it a
turn to see that all is right. Now shave the ice with a
chipper, or pound it in a coarse bag, then turn it into a
tub or pan, and with each ten pounds of ice mix one quart
of rock salt ; pack this around the can, almost to the top.
Now tiun the crank slowly and steadily until it goes pretty
hard. If properly packed, it will take twenty to twenty-
five minutes to freeze. It is not well to freeze loo quickly.
Water ices require a longer time than ice creams. When
138 ICE CREAMS
frozen, remove the crank, wipe the lid of the can and
take it off, being careful not to allow any salt to fall into
the can ; remove the dasher and scrape it off; take a large^
wooden spatula or mush stick, and scrape the cream from
the sides of the can, and beat and work steadily for ten
minutes ; this makes the cream smooth. Now put the lid
on the can, put a cork in the hole where the dasher was
taken out, drain off the water from the tub, repack with
salt and ice, cover the tub with a piece of carpet, and stand
away in a cold place for one or two hours to ripen. When
the cream is fresh, in tasting, you taste each ingredient
separately, but after standing one or two hours they blend
and form a pleasant whole. This is called ripening. When
ready to serve, dip the can in cold water quickly and wipe
it, then turn the cream out on a dish. If you wish to serve
the cream in forms, after you are done working it with a
wooden spatula, fill the mould or form with the cream,
press it down with a spoon, being careful to fill every part
of the mould. Bind the edge of the mould with a piece
of letter paper, put on the lid and press it down. Dip a
strip of muslin in melted paraffin and cover the joint. Pack
the mould in salt and ice for one or two hours until wanted.
If you have no freezer, an impromptu one may be made by
using a tin pail for the can and a bucket or cask for the
tub. In this case it will have to- be stirred occasionally,
while freezing, with a wooden spoon or flat stick, replacing
the lid of the kettle after each stirring, and give the pail a
rotary motion in the ice.
To freeze puddings follow the ss^me directions.
CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM
Put a pint of cream on to scald, add two ounces of sweet
chocolate, a tablespoonful of vanilla sugar, seven ounces
ICE CREAMS 189
of granulated sugar, a quarter-teaspoonful of powdered
cinnamon, stir until perfectly smooth, and until the choco-
late is thoroughly melted. Strain while hot through a fine
muslin, stand aside to cool. When cold add another pint
of cream. Turn into the freezer, and freeze.
PEACH ICE CREAM
Put a pint of cream on to boil in a farina boiler ; when
hot add ten ounces of sugar, and stir until dissolved. Take
from the fire, add another pint of cream and when cold,
freeze. Pare and mash a quart of peaches and stir them
quickly into the frozen cream. Turn the crank rapidly for
five minutes, then remove the dasher, repack the tub,
cover, and stand away two hours to ripen.
STRAWBERRY ICE CREAM
Put one pint of cream and a half-pound of sugar on to boil
in a farina boiler, when the sugar is dissolved, stand aside
to cool. Add another half-pound of sugar and the juice
of one lemon to one quart of strawberries, mash and stand
aside one hour, then strain through a fine muslin. Add
another pint of cream to the sweetened cream, and freeze.
When frozen stir in the fruit juice, freeze again and finish as
before. Or the berries may be added without straining.
VANILLA ICE CREAM
Put one pint of cream and a half-pound of sugar, and one
vanilla bean split in halves, or two tablespoonfuls of the
sugar, on to boil in a farina boiler ; stir constantly for ten
minutes. Take from the fire, take out the bean, if you use
it| and with a blunt knife scrape out the seeds, and the
140 ICE CREAMS
soft part from the inside of the bean, being careful not to
waste one seed. Mix the seeds thoroughly with the cream,
and stand away to cool. When cold add another pint of
cream, and freeze. Finish as in preceding recipe.
Put one quart of milk on to heat in a farina boiler. Beat
together four whole eggs, and a half-pound of sugar ; stir
this into the milk and cook one minute. Strain, cool, add
a tablespoonful of vanilla, and freeze as directed.
FROZEN PUDDINGS AND ICES
MACEDOINE DE FRUITS GLACES
Shell a quarter-pound of paper-shell almonds, blanch by
pouring over them boiling water, then chop very fine, and
pound to a paste. Cut into tiny pieces a quarter of a
pound of candied cherries, same quantity of apricots, and
the same of pineapple. Make a syrup the same as for
Orange Sherbet. After boiling and skimming, add the
fruit and almonds and stand aside to cool. When cool,
add sufficient lemon juice to make it pleasant (about six
lemons). Freeze and finish the same as other sherbets.
Peel four oranges and separate them in carpels, removing
all the white skin and seeds. Boil one-half pound of sugar
and one and one-half quarts of water together five minutes,
take it from the fire, add the juice of two oranges, throw
in the carpels, and let stand until cool. When cold,
remove the oranges, turn the syrup into the freezer, and
freeze. When frozen, stir in the pieces of oranges care-
fully, cover, and stand aside for twenty minutes only.
Serve in glasses.
142 FROZEN PUDDINGS AND ICES
Put one and one-half pints of cream in a farina boiler with
one stick of cinnamon and the rind of one lemon, chipped.
Beat twelve ounces of sugar and the yolks of three eggs
together, and stir into the boiling cream, cook one minute,
strain, and when cold, freeze. When frozen, remove the
dasher and stir in an extra pint of cream, whipped ; stand
aside for two hours. Sei-ve with one pint of preserved
damsons over and around it.
ORANGE SOUFFLE (FROZEN)
Cover one-half box of gelatine with a half-cup of cold
water, and soak one hour, then add a half-cup of boiling
water to dissolve. Mix one pint of orange juice and one
pound of sugar together. Whip one quart of cream.
Beat the yolks of six eggs until light, add them to the
orange juice and sugar, then add the gelatine, strained,
and freeze. When frozen, remove dasher, stir in the
whipped cream, and stand aside two hours to ripen.
PUR^E OF APRICOTS (FROZEN)
Beat one-quart can of apricots until thoroughly mashed
and smooth. Beat the yolks of six eggs and one-half pound
of sugar together until light, then add them with one pint
of cream to the apricots, turn the whole into a farina boiler,
and stir over the fire until the eggs begin to thicken, strain
through a fine sieve and whip until cold and the consis-
tency of sponge-cake batter, add three tablespoonfuls of
maraschino, and freeze.
Blanch and pound one-half pound of Jordan almonds to a
paste. Scald one quart of cream in a farina boiler, add the
FROZEN PUDDINGS AND ICES 143
almonds, then the yolks of seven eggs and one-half pound
of sugar beaten to a cream, and stir over the fire until they
begin to thicken, take from the fire, and beat continuously
for three minutes ; strain through a fine sieve and freeze.
When frozen, remove the dasher, make a small well in the
centre, fill it with apricot jam, cover, and stand aside for
two hours. When ready to serve, dip the can quickly into
warm water, and turn the plumbi^re on a dish.
ICED RICE PUDDING WITH A COMPOTE OP
Rub one-half cup of rice well in a clean towel, put it on
to boil in one pint of cold water, boil a half-hour ; drain,
cover with one pint of milk, and boil a half-hour longer.
While this is boiling, whip one quart of cream. After you
have whipped all you can, add the remainder, and what
has drained from the other, to the rice and milk. Stand
the whipped cream in a cold place until wanted. Now
press the rice through a wire sieve, and return it to the
farina boiler in which it was boiled. Beat the yolks of six
eggs and one and a half cups of sugar together until light,
then pour over the boiled rice, stir well, return again to the
fire and cook two minutes, or until it begins to thicken.
Take from the fire, add one tablespoonful of vanilla, and turn
out to cool. When cool, put into the freezer and freeze.
When frozen, stir in the whipped cream, remove the dasher
and smooth down the pudding, and let stand for two hours.
FOR THE COMPOTE
Put one pound of sugar and one gill of water on to boil ;
boil five minutes, skim, and add the juice of a quarter
lemon. Peel one dozen sweet oranges, cut them in halves
144 FROZEN PUDDINGS AND ICES
crosswise, cut out the cores with a square knife ; put a few
pieces at a time in the hot syrup, and lay them out singly
on a flat dish \ pour over them the remaining syrup, and
stand on the ice to cool. To dish the pudding, lift the can
out of the ice and wipe it off, so that the salt will not get
into the pudding; then wipe the bottom with a towel
dipped in boiling water, put a dish over the top of it, turn
it upside down and remove the can ; if it should stick, wipe
again with the hot towel. Heap the oranges on top and
around the base of the pudding, and pour the syrup over
Pare one dozen large mellow peaches, remove the stones,
and cut or chop the peaches with a silver spoon, then add
to them one pint of orange juice and one pound of granu-
lated sugar ; stir until the sugar is thoroughly dissolved,
then turn into the freezer, and finish the same as Orange
Being made entirely without water, it is heavy, rich
Grated apple or pear may be substituted for peaches ;
any fruits that blend nicely together, such as pineapple and
orange, raspberry and currant, grape and plum, may be
used, and all sherbet may be made according to these
Squeeze the juice from one dozen good-sized oranges, and
one good-sized lemon, the juice should measure one and a
half pints, after it is strained. Add one pound of sugar to
one quart of water, and boil five minutes ; skim and strain
through a fine muslin and stand aside to cool. When cool
FROZEN PUDDINGS AND ICES 146
add the orange juice and a tablespoonful of gelatine, that
has been soaked and dissolved. Turn the whole into the
freezer, and pack with salt and cracked ice, allowing a
quart of salt to ten pounds of ice. Cover and fasten the
can, and turn the crank slowly and steadily until it is
frozen pretty stiff. Then beat the white of one ^gg until
light, add an even tablespoonful of powdered sugar and
beat again. Remove the dasher from the can, and, with
a paddle stir into the sherbet this beaten ^gg. Scrape down
the sides of the can and work the sherbet for about three
minutes, until perfectly smooth. Draw off the water, repack
the can, cover with an old piece of carpet and stand aside
for about two hours to ripen.
Cover a half-box gelatine with a half-cup of cold water and
soak a half-hour, then add a half-cup of boiling water and
stir until the gelatine is dissolved. Mix one pint of straw-
berry juice with three-quarters pound of sugar, until
they form a syrup. Beat the yolks of six eggs to a cream,
add them to the syrup, beat until thoroughly mixed.
Whip one quart of cream. Strain the gelatine into the
syrup and eggs, turn into a freezer and freeze. When
frozen, stir in lightly and hastily the whipped cream. Re-
pack the freezer and stand aside for two hours. This
recipe will serve fifteen people.
Add one pound of sugar to one quart of water ; boil three
minutes and skim. When cool, add the juice of four large
lemons and the grated yellow rind of two, turn into a
freezer, pack with salt and ice, allowing one quart of salt
146 FROZEN PUDDINGS AND ICES
to ten pounds of ice. Turn the crank slowly and contin-
uously until the mixture is half-frozen and looks like wet
snow. Serve in lemonade glasses.
Frapp6 may be made and frozen in an ordinary tin
kettle, packed in a bucket with salt and ice, as they do not
require much stirring, it can be easily done with a
paddle. Nothing is more refreshing on a warm day, for
lunch, than a nicely prepared frapp^.
Chip the yellow rind from two lemons and one orange ;
then add these chips, and one and a quarter pounds of
granulated sugar to one quart of water, stir over the fire
xmtil the sugar is dissolved, and then boil, after it begins
to boil, five minutes, skim and strain through a hair sieve
or a piece of cheese cloth, and stand aside to cool. When
cold, add the strained juice of four juicy lemons and
one orange. Pour this into the freezer, pack with salt and
ice, about ten pounds of ice and one quart of salt will be
required. Turn the crank slowly for a few minutes, then
rest for about five, and then turn very slowly again, and so
continue until it is frozen. A much longer time is required
for freezing water-ice than ice cream. When frozen hard,
remove the dasher, scrape down the sides of the can, and,
with a wooden paddle, beat thoroughly. Put a cork in
the lid, draw the water from the tub, repack with salt and
ice. Dip an old piece of carpet in the brine, cover it over
the tub, and stand in a cold place for about two hours.
Put one pint of milk in a double boiler to scald. Melt
three ounces of chocolate (not sweet), add it to the
FROZEN PUDDINGS AND ICES 147
milk; stir until perfectly smooth, add seven ounces of
sugar and a tablespoonful of vanilla, take from the fire,
stir until the sugar is dissolved, turn into the freezer,
pack with salt and ice, and freeze the same as ice cream.
Then stir in one pint of cream, whipped, repack, and
stand aside for two hours.
Put six ounces of sweet chocolate in a boiler and stand
it over boiling water to melt. Boil « one-half cup of sugar
and one-half pint of water until it forms a thick syrup.
Scald one and one-half quarts of cream in a farina boiler,
add it to the melted chocolate, then the syrup, mix thor-
oughly, and when cold, strain and freeze.
Boil twelve oimces of sugar and one pint of water until it
forms a thickish syrup, then add one pint of strong coffee,
which should be made from a blended coffee of Mocha and
Java. Scald one quart of cream in a farina boiler, then
add it to the syrup and coffee, and when cold, freeze.
Serve in glasses.
FROZEN COFFEE CUSTARD
Put one pint of milk in a double boiler to scald. Beat
four eggs and one-half pound of sugar together until very
light, add them to the hot milk, cook an instant, take from
the fire, add one-half pint of cream and one-half pint of
strong coffee. When cold, freeze.
As there is nothing easier than coffee makings it is a
wonder how marvelously bad it is usually done. A little
pains, good coffee, and freshly boiled water, is all that is
necessary. There is a decided difference in coffee pots,
but the best one I have ever seen, in the hands of a careless
cook, will produce the worst decoction one needs to
drink. The first and most important point is the knowing
how to select coffee. The best results are usually obtained
from a mixture of two-thirds Java, and one-third Mocha,
at the same time I have tasted many a good cup of coffee
made from Rio. A Frenchman would tell you- that his
mixture of three-fourths Mocha, one-fourth Martinique,
was the only sensible or luscious one ; he would also tell
you that to make perfect coffee you should use chicory,
but I beg to differ with him, as the former blending is quite
perfect. Chicory is largely consumed on the continent,
not as a mere adulteration of coffee, or as a matter of
economy, but upon its own merits. In Belgium, it is said
that five pounds per head are used in the year, counting
the entire population. In certain parts of Germany women
become chicory topers. It does not contain any of the
elements of coffee, but forms a drink closely allied in color
Having settled the choice of coffee, the second import-
ant point is the water, which should be freshly boiled soft
water. Not water drawn from the hot spigot into the
kettle the night before, and placed on the range to simmer
all night, to lose its gases and become flat ; such water,
no matter what sort of a pot or coffee you use, will produce
simply *' slush.'* The tea kettle should be rinsed out every
morning, flUed with fresh, cold water, brought quickly to
a boil, and used at once. This is a matter of a few
moments, and will boil while the remainder of the break-
fest is being prepared.
Boiled or not boiled, is an ever-recurring question.
As boiling leads to a loss of aroma, a decoction involves a
waste. If economy is not an object, a surplus of coffee
may be used to overcome this, but economy should be an
object, and an infusion rather than a decoction made, there-
fore the old-fashioned biggin, or some of the new steam
coffee pots, make the more economical coffee.
Take six heaping tablespoonfuls of finely ground coffee,
moisten it with a half-cup of cold water, add one tgg shell,
crushed, or a teaspoonful of the white of egg, too much
weakens the coffee, turn this mixture into an ordinary tin
pot, pour over it one quart of freshly boiled water, put the
lid on the pot and bring quickly to a boil ; boil one minute,
remove the lid, stir down the grounds, add a half-cup of
cold water, and stand it on the back part of the range to
settle. Have your table coffee pot filled with boiling water
to heat. If it be a cold morning, have also your coffee
cups heated. Rack the coffee into the table pot, and serve
COFFEE BY PERCOLATION
Put four tablespoonfuls of finely ground coffee in the top
of your percolator, press it down, cover it with the upper
sieve, and pour through a little at a time one quart of
freshly boiled water, covering the pot closely each time,
while the water is dripping through. Serve immediately.
This coffee must not be boiled, and is not good if kept
waiting. It is more healthful, more economical, and has a
finer flavor than boiled coffee.
Tea, like coffee, should not be boiled, but made from
freshly boiled water, allowing one teaspoonful to each per-
son, and one to the pot. First scald the pot, and allow it to
stand on the back part of the stove about ten minutes ;
then turn out the water, put the tea into the hot pot, and
pour over it one-half the boiling water (that is, if you are
going to make one quart of tea, pour over it, at this stage,
one pint), cover the pot, and stand on the back part of the
stove five minutes to draw ; then add the remainder of the
boiling water, and serve at once.
Never use a metal teapot.
Russian tea is made by putting a slice of lemon in the
bottom of each cup, and pouring over it the boiling tea.
Put four ounces of chocolate into a farina boiler, stand it
over the fire to melt. When melted, add one quart of new
milk slightly warmed, and two tablespoonfuls of sugar.
Cover the farina boiler and boil five minutes, then with a
whip chum, or an tgg beater, beat the chocolate until
smooth £did creamy. Serve with whipped cream.
Put one quart of milk to boil in a farina boiler. Moisten
four tablespoonfuls of cocoa with a little cold milk, pour it
into the boiling milk, stirring all the while. Stir until it
comes to boiling point, cover the farina boiler, and boil five
minutes. Serve with whipped cream.
Broma, alkathrepta, and racahout are all made pre-
cisely the same as cocoa.
Put two quarts of raspberries into a stone jar, and pour
over them one quart of good cider vinegar. Cover and
stand aside for two days, then drain off the liquid without
mashing the berries, pour it over a quart of fresh fruit, and
stand as before. Do this once more, the last time strain-
ing through a muslin bag. Now add one pound of sugar
to every pint of this liquid. Boil slowly five minutes,
skim, let stand fifteen. minutes, bottle, and seal.
Strawberry and blackberry vinegars are made in pre-
cisely the same manner.
The manner of canning different kinds of fruit varies but
little. Perfectly sound fruit only should be used, and all
fruits may be canned with or without sugar, as it takes no
part in their preservation.
Com is the most difficult of all vegetables to keep,
but by mixing with it an equal quantity of tomatoes no
difficulty will be found.
All fruits should be cooked but little, as long cooking
destroys their natural flavor, but they must go scalding hot
into air-tight glass jars, filled to overflowing to exclude
every particle of air, then quickly sealed. Thoroughly
heat the jars before filling, then stand them while filling
on a damp towel to reduce the danger of breakage. After
the jars are well filled, the tops, which should be glass or
porcelain, must be screwed on quickly and tightly, and
the jars placed where the air will not strike them, to stand
over night. In the morning you will be able to give the
tops another turn, then wipe the jars and put them away
in a dark, cool (not cold), dry closet. In a week examine
them carefully. If the liquor has settled and there are no
visible air-bubbles, you may be sure the fruit is keeping.
If you find the opposites, empty the jars at once, or they
Small fruits are best sugared one or two hours before
Large fruits should be thrown into cold water as soon
as they are pared to prevent discoloration.
It is the safest plan to cook only fruit enough to fill
one or two jars at a time. Have the jars hot and every-
thing ready; as soon as the fruit is done fill the jars quickly,
run a silver spoon-handle around the jar to break any air
bubbles that may be there and then screw on the tops
Pare and throw them into cold water. When you have
enough to fill one or two jars, take them from the water,
put them in a porcelain-lined kettle, cover them with
boiling water, and stand on the back part of the fire where
they will scarcely simmer until tender. While they are
cooking, make a syrup from one pound of sugar and one
quart of water, stir over the fire until the sugar is dissolved,
and then boil for three minutes. Lift the peaches carefully
from the water, put them in the syrup, bring to boiling
point, and can as directed.
Proceed precisely the same as for peaches.
The large sugar loaf are best for canning. They should
be pared, the eyes removed, and the flesh carefully picked
into pieces with a silver fork. To every pound allow three-
quarters of a pound of sugar. Put the pineapple into a
porcelain -lined kettle, sprinkle over the sugar, and cook
over a moderate fire for ten minutes. Can as directed.
Pineapple may also be grated.
Pare, core, and cut the quinces into rings, and proceed
exactly the same as for peaches, using a half-pound of sugar
to every pound of quinces.
The skin and rough pieces may be used for jelly.
To every pound of blackberries allow a quarter of a pound
of sugar. Put into a porcelain-lined kettle, sufficient
berries to fill two jars, cover them with the sugar and
stand aside for two hours, then bring to boiling point.
Can as directed.
When large quantities of berries are being canned they
may be sugared on meat plates or in large basins.
Stone the cherries , and if sour, allow a half-pound of
sugar to every pound of cherries. If sweet a quarter of a
pound will be quite sufficient. Proceed the same as for
CURRANTS AND RASPBERRIES
To each quart of large red raspberries, allow a half-pint
of currant juice and a half-pound of sugar. Put the
berries in a porcelain -lined kettle, add the juice and sugar,
bring to boiling point and can.
Allow three-quarters of a pound of sugar to every pound
of plums. Proceed as for blackberries.
Gages may be canned in the same manner, first prick-
ing the skins to prevent cracking.
To every five pounds of damsons allow three pounds
These are canned precisely the same as blackberries, using
a half-pound of sugar to each pound of berries.
Fill the cans full of fresli uncooked corn, cut from the cob,
and seal them lightly. Cover the bottom of a wash boiler
with straw or hay, stand the cans on this and pour over
sufficient cold water to nearly cover. Cover the boiler
and heat the water gradually to boiling point. Boil for
two hours. If the cans are tin, puncture the top to allow
the escape of gas. If they are glass simply unscrew the
lids and quickly fasten them again. Now boil two hours
''Lady's Blush" or "Fall Pippins" make the best
Wipe the fruit, cut it into pieces without paring or
removing the seeds. Put into a porcelain -lined kettle, and
just cover with cold water, cover and cook for a few min-
utes until the apples are very tender. Drain through a
flannel bag — do not press or squeeze or the jelly will be
muddled or cloudy. To each pint of this juice allow one
pound of granulated sugar. Put the juice in the kettle, bring
to a boil and skim ; add the sugar, stir until it is dissolved,
then boil rapidly and continuously until it jellies, skimming
the scum as it comes to the surface. Twenty minutes
is usually sufficient. It is wise to commence testing
after fifteen minutes boiling, by taking just a spoonful in a
saucer and standing it for a moment in a cold place, if it
jellies on the surface quickly it is done, but if liquid when
cold, continue boiling. When done, roll the tumblers
quickly in hot water, then fill them with the boiling liquid,
stand aside without covering for twenty-four hours. Then
cover the tops with two thicknesses of tissue paper, care-
fully pasting the edges down on the tumblers. Moisten
the top of the paper with cold water. This moistening
stretches the paper, which shrinks when dry, forming an
excellent cover, much better than tin or other tops. Keep
in a C00I9 dark closet.
CRAB APPLE JELLY
Make precisely the same as Apple Jelly.
The under-ripe cultivated or the wild blackberries are best
for jelly Put the berries into a stone jar, stand it in a kettle
of water, cover the top of the jar, and boil slowly for one
hour, or until the berries are quite soft. Now put a small
quantity at a time into your jelly-bag, and squeeze out all
the juice. Measure the juice, and to each pint allow one
pound of granulated sugar. Turn the juice into a porce-
lain-lined kettle, and stand over a brisk fire. Put the
sugar into earthen dishes and stand them in the oven to
heat. Boil the juice rapidly and continuously for twenty
minutes, then turn in the sugar, hastily stirring all the
while until the sugar is dissolved. Dip your tumblers
quickly into hot water, watch the liquid carefully, and, as
soon as it comes again to a boil, take it from the fire and
fill the tumblers.
If the fruit is over-ripe, your jelly will never be firm,
no matter how long you boil it.
Follow these directions carefully, and you will never
I quart of cranberries i pound of sugar
J^ pint of water
Wash the cranberries and put them on with the water to
boil for ten minutes, then mash and squeeze through a
flannel bag. Return the juice to the kettle, add the sugar,
boil rapidly and continuously for about fifteen minutes, or
until it jellies, and turn out to cool.
Select currants that have been freshly picked and are not
too ripe. If they are sandy, wash them, but do not stem.
Mash a small quantity at a time in a stone jar, with a
potato-masher, squeeze through a flannel bag, then strain
again without squeezing, that the liquor may be perfectly
clear. Turn the liquid into a porcelain-lined kettle, stand
over a brisk fire. Put the sugar into earthen basins, and
put in the oven to heat. Boil the juice twenty minutes
after it begins to boil, then stir in hastily the hot sugar,
and stir until the sugar is dissolved — no longer. Skim
thoroughly, bring it quickly to a boil again, and boil two
minutes. Dip the tumblers into hot water, fill them with
the boiling liquid, and stand away for twenty-four hours to
jelly. If it is not then sufficiently jellied, cover the
tumblers with common window-glass and stand in the sun
several days. Then cover with tissue paper as directed
for Blackberry Jelly.
PRESERVED PUMPKIN CHIPS
Late pumpkins are best for this purpose, and in fact the
preserves may be made in winter as pumpkins will keep
perfectly well during the year.
Select a fine, ripe one of a deep yellow color, cut it
into halves, then into narrow strips, pare off the outer rind
and remove the seeds. Now cut the strips into thin shav-
ings, weigh these shavings, and allow to each pound one
pound of granulated sugar. Secure several dozen of nice,
ripe lemons, as it will require one gill of lemon juice to
each pound of fruit. Pare the lemons and squeeze out the
juice. If you use a glass lemon squeezer it is not necessary
to pare them. Spread the pumpkin chips on large platters,
sprinkle the sugar over them, then the lemon juice, stand
in a cool place over night. In the morning put them into
a porcelain-lined kettle, and cook slowly for an hour and a
quarter, or until the pumpkin becomes tender, crisp and
transparent. Stir carefully and cook slowly, as the pieces
must not break or lose their form. Skim frequently as the
scum comes to the surface. When the chips are done, lift
them carefully with a skimmer, and put them in tumblers
or jars ; strain the syrup through a flannel bag that has been
wrung from boiling water, and pour it over the chips.
When cold tie up the same as jelly.
If these are made nicely they form a most delicious
Cut one dozen of the finest oranges into the thinnest slices,
put them in a porcelain kettle, and pour over them six
quarts of cold water, cover, and stand in a cool place
twenty-four hours, then put them on to boil in the same
water ; boil slowly for three hours, then add seven pounds
of granulated sugar, and boil again until clear and reduced
one-half. In cutting, carefully keep out all seeds and cote.
Put up in tumblers the same as jelly.
Select ripe yellow tomatoes, weigh them, cut them into
pieces, and put in a porcelain kettle, and for each pound
add the grated yellow rind of one lemon ; simmer gently
for thirty minutes, then drain, and press gently through a
cheese cloth. Measure the liquor and return it to the
kettle, and for each pint add one pound of granulated
sugar and four tablespoonfuls of lemon juice. Boil twenty
or thirty minutes until a jelly-like syrup is formed. Put in
bottles or tumblers for keeping.
Wash and boil until tender four pounds of young carrots,
drain, and peel, then press them through a colander, put
them into a porcelain-lined kettle with two pounds of sugar
and a pint of water, add a few pieces of chipped lemon
peel, the grated yellow rind of two oranges, a small piece
o^ ginger root cut into pieces, and two bay leaves ; simmer
gently until the proper consbtency, and put away in
NEW ENGLAND APPLE MARMALADE
Pare, core, and cut into thin slices ripe tart apples, weigh
them, and to each pound allow one pound of granulated
sugar and a gill of water. Put the sugar and water into a
porcelain-lined kettle, and when melted add the apples,
and for each two pounds of apples add the grated yellow
rind and juice of one lemon ; simmer gently until the apples
look clear. Cook over a very slow fire, watching carefully
and stirring frequently to prevent scorching, put into glass
jars and hermetically seal.
Select large, ripe currants ; stem and weigh them, and to
each pound allow a pound of sugar, put both in a porcelain-
lined kettle and stand over a very moderate fire, stirring
occasionally until the sugar melts, then draw it over a
hotter part of the fire and stir until the jam begins to boil.
Boil ten minutes from the first boil. Put in tumblers
or jars, and when cold fasten the same as jelly.
Top and stem six pounds of ripe gooseberries, put them
over the fire in a porcelain-lined kettle, and heat slowly,
stirring carefully to prevent scorching. When the berries
begin to pop add six pounds of granulated sugar, and con-
tinue boiling and stirring for a half-hour. Put up in jars
or tumblers, and when cold fasten the same as jelly.
Cut six good-sized shaddocks into halves, and with a spoon
scoop all the pulp, carefully rejecting the bitter white skin.
When all are finished, measure and put the pulp in a
porcelain-lined kettle; to each pint add one pound of
granulated sugar and a half-pint of water ; simmer gently
until a thick marmalade is formed. Put into tumblers, and
when cold fasten the same as jelly.
This marmalade is nice to serve with game.
This and all small fruit jellies are made precisely the same
as Blackberry Jelly.
All rolled cereals — oats, wheat, barley, com, rice — cook
thoroughly in less time than the whole grains. With the
exception of rice, all these should be cooked one hour.
Allow two measures of water, slightly salted, to one of
rolled cereals. Cook in a double boiler without stirring,
until each grain is tender and swollen double its bulk.
HOW TO COOK CRACKED WHEAT
Add a half-teaspoonful of salt to a pint and a gill of
water, pour into a double boiler, and, when boiling hot,
add a half-pint of cracked wheat, and let it simmer^
without cover, on the top of the range for one hour. The
water will be almost evaporated ; then add a pint and a
gill of hot milk, and let it cook one hour longer. When
done, stir it carefully, as it will be thin and the grains
liable to sink ; pour it into cups previously wet with cold
water. Stand them aside until cold and solid. Serve
with cream and powdered sugar.
Add four heaping tablespoonfuls of Irish or Akron oat-
meal to one quart of boiling water, add a teaspoonful of
salt, mix, and put the whole in a double boiler. Fill the
lower boiler with boiling water, stand the inside boiler in
this and boil rapidly twenty minutes, then push the boiler
to one side of the range, and cook slowly over night. The
oatmeal must not be stirred after the first mixing, it cannot
burn in a double boiler unless the under boiler becomes
dry — ^the stirring makes the mush starchy and waxy, and
also spoils its flavor. Oatmeal made after this recipe will
be light, each grain separate, but swollen three times its
original size, and will have a delicious flavor. Turn it out
carefully into the dish, without stirring or breaking the
TO OLACE FRUITS
Have the fruit perfectly dry. If oranges, separate care-
fully each carpel without breaking the inner skin. Stand
them in a warm place to dry. Put one pound of granu-
lated sugar in a granite kettle, add to it a half-cup of
water and stand over the fire to boil. Do not stir after
the sugar is dissolved. After the mixture has been boiling
about ten minutes, hold the forefinger and thumb in ice-
water for a minute, then quickly dip up a little of the boil-
ing syrup with them ; press the thumb and finger tightly
together, then draw them apart ; if the syrup forms a thread
it is at the second degree. Boil gently about three or four
minutes longer until it reaches the sixth degree. This may
be known by taking a small portion on the end of a spoon,
then dipping it into cold water, and breaking it off* quickly,
if it is brittle, without being at all sticky, it is just right.
The syrup must never be stirred, or it will cause granula-
tion. Now take it quickly from the fire, add a tablespoonful
of lemon juice, stand in a basin of boiling water, to keep
the syrup from candying. Take the fruit on the point of a
large skewer or with the sugar tongs, dip into the syrup,
lay it on a piece of buttered paper, and stand in a warm dry
place to dry.
English walnuts and almonds are glac^d in the same
STEWED DRIED APPLES
If the apples have been carefully dried they will not require
washing. Cover with cold water and soak over night. In
the morning cook them slowly in the same water until per-
fectly tender. When tender, sweeten, flavor with a few bits
of lemon peel and juice of a half-lemon, to each quart of
apples. The apples may be left whole or pressed through
Save every scrap of fat, be it mutton or beef, alsos kimmings
from com -beef and soups, and the most tainted of these
fats may be deprived of their bad odors and flavors by
simply reheating. Put the fat into a large frying-pan, let it
heat gradually to about 212® Fahr., then cautiously pour
in a half-cup of hot water (to every three pounds of fat).
The steam produced by the water carries off" the volatile,
fatty acids which produce the rancidity and also removes
the offensive matters that are decomposable by heat. This
clarifying must be done carefully, as there is danger of the
bubbles of steam bursting and throwing the fat over the
fire, consequently, cook slowly and continuously until all
the water has evaporated, leaving a clear, golden oil, which
will harden when placed on the cold.
TO EXTRACT SALT FROM LARD
It is frequently necessary, for medicinal purposes, to extract
every particle of salt from the lard. To do this, put a
half-cup of lard in a two-quart tin kettle, pour over it a
quart and pint of boiling water, stir it around and stand
in a cold place. The lard, when cold, will form a cake on
the surface of the water, the salt remaining in the water.
TO PREPARE DRIED CHERRIES FOR PIES
Look them over, and if they are dusty, wash them. Then
just cover them with boiling water, and soak over night.
In the morning, bring them to boiling point in the same
water in which they were soaked, sweeten, and they are
ready to use.
TO CLEAN DRIED CURRANTS
First, put them into a pan and dust them lightly with flour,
rub them between the hands to remove the stems, then
wash them well through several cold waters, put them in a
colander, and pour over several quarts of boiling water,
drain them until perfectly free from water, spread them
out on large dishes, and put in a warm place to dry. It is
best to prepare a quantity and keep them in tin or wooden
boxes to be ready when needed.
ICED FRUITS FOR BREAKFAST
Take fine bunches of currants, dip them in the unbeaten
white of t%g^ them sift them thickly with powdered sugar,
and lay them on a sieve to dry.
Bunches of grapes, cherries, plums or strawberries,
may be done in the same manner.
A GOOD TABLE MUSTARD
Moisten two tablespoonfuls of corn starch with a little cold
water, then add to it a half-pint of boiling water, stir until
it boils, take it from the fire, and add two tablespoonfuls
of tarragon vinegar, two teaspoonfuls of ground mustard, a
level teaspoon ful of salt, a dash of cayenne, a half-tea-
spoonful of cloves, and a level teaspoonful of cinnamon ;
keep closely covered.
Grate four good-sized potatoes into a quart of hot water, cook
and stir over a very moderate fire for five minutes, take
from the fire, add a half-cup of sugar and two tablespoon-
fuls of salt ; mix, and turn into a stone jar and stand aside
until lukewarm, then add one cupful of good yeast, cover,
and ferment three or four hours, stirring it down each time
it comes to the top of the vessel. When the fermentation
is over cover it tightly and keep in a cold, but not freezing,
place. This will keep two weeks, and is the best and
simplest yeast that can be made.
CARRAGEEN BLANC MANGE
Wash three good-sized pieces of carrageen through several
cold waters, then throw them in a pint of milk and soak
for thirty minutes, then cook in a farina boiler until the
carrageen is reduced to a pulp, strain into a mould and
stand away to harden. Serve with sugar and cream.
Separate one t%%y beat the white and yolk until light, then
add the yolk to the white and mix carefully. Take the
juice of one lemon, add one gill of ice water and sufficient
sugar to sweeten, now add this quickly to the beaten ^^^'^y
add a little cracked ice, and serve at once.
Pare two lemons and remove all the white skin, then cut
them into very thin slices, pour over them a pint of boiling
water, and stand aside to cool. When cool, press the
lemons, sweeten, and serve with cracked ice.
Select the largest and ripest blackberries, mash them and
strain them through a flannel. To each quart of this juice
allow one pound of granulated sugar, put them in a granite
boiler, add a half-ounce of whole cloves, and a quarter of
an ounce of stick cinnamon, boil the whole for a few
moments until it forms a thin jelly. Take it from the fire,
and stand aside to cool. When cold, to each quart add a
half-pint of good brandy. Bottle and seal for use.
When one cannot procure cream for coffee, a mock .cream
may be quickly made but must be used carefully.
Put a half-pint of milk in a farina boiler. Beat the
yolks of two eggs until light and creamy, stir them into
the scalding milk and cook about one minute, take from
the fire, and with an ^g% beater beat continuously for
five minutes, and stand away to cool.
TRIPE Terrapin Style
Boil three pounds of honeycomb tripe in plenty of water
for eight hours. When done and cold cut it into neat
pieces one inch square, put it in a stewing-pan, and add
a half-pint of good cream. Mix a quarter-pound of butter
with two tablespoonfuls of flour, and stir it in with the
tripe, stir continuously until it boils, then add the yolks
of two eggs, cook an instant, take from the fire add a pala-
table seasoning of salt and pepper, and four tablespoonfuls
Weigh nice ripe grapes, pick them from the stem, put them
into a porcelain-lined kettle with sufficient water to just
cover the bottom of the kettle. Simmer slowly until the seeds
easily separate from the pulp, then press the whole through
a colander, then strain it through two thicknesses of cheese-
cloth, then return the juice to the kettle, to each five
pounds of fruit, add one and a half pounds of granulated
sugar, bring to simmering point, and while hot, bottle, cork
HOW TO COOK WHEAT GRANULES
Add a teaspoonful of salt to one quart of boiling water,
then sift in slowly, stirring all the while, a half-pint of wheat
granules, cook over a very moderate fire for twenty minutes.
Serve warm with sugar and cream.
These granules make an exceedingly wholesome break-
fast dish, being less heating than oatmeal, they are espe-
cially adapted to spring and summer breakfasts.
Glaze is simply reduced stock, and to make stock we
usually take a shin or part of a shin as necessity requires ;
wipe it with a damp towel, and cut all the meat from the
bone. Place the bones in the bottom of a porcelain-lined
or granite soup kettle, put the meat on top of them, add
one quart of water to every pound of the shin, and stand
the kettle over a moderate fire for one hour. We use a
granite or porcelain-lined kettle to protect the flavor, which
would become impaired in using iron. The juices of the
meat are always acid, acting quickly on a metallic kettle.
Cover the kettle closely to keep in the steam and pre-
vent too rapid evaporation, and also to keep the dust and
smoke out. After the kettle has been standing thus for
one hour, push it over a quicker fire. In about thirty
minutes, a scum will begin to gather on the surface, and
the water will begin to steam. Now push it back over the
moderate fire again, add one cup of cold water and skim
off the scum. Cover the kettle and let it simmer^ not boil,
for five hours, then strain through a fine sieve and stand at
once in a cold place to cool. If it does not cool quickly,
it will not form a firm jelly. When cold, take all the
grease from the surface, remove the stock from the dish,
rejecting all the brown sediment in the bottom. Now
return the stock to a porcelain-lined or granite kettle,
stand it over a good fire, and do not cover it, boil gently
until reduced two-thirds or one-half, then turn out to cool.
WAX FOR SEALING FRUIT
Melt one pound of resin over a slow fire, when hot, add
one ounce of beeswax and two ounces of beef's tallow, stir
continuously until thoroughly mixed, then stand away to
cool. When wanted for use, simply heat.
DIFFERENT WAYS OF PREPARING ALMONDS
HOW TO BLANCH
Throw the shelled almonds into a saucepan containing
boiling water, allow them to remain in this on the back
part of the fire until the skin will easily push off, then drain
them, throw them into cold water for a moment, and drain
again, then you can rub off the skins with your hands or
TO SHRED ALMONDS
After they have been skinned, cut them with a thin-bladed
knife lengthwise, into shreds, dividing each almond into
TO POUND ALMONDS
After the skins have been removed, let them soak in cold
water for an hour, this is to prevent them from becoming
so oily while being pounded. Put them in a mortar, a few
at a time, pound, and rub them to a softish pulp, adding
occasionally a few drops of rose water to keep them moist.
HOW TO SALT ALMONDS
After they are blanched, spread them over the bottom of
a baking-pan, add the smallest amount of butter to lightly
grease them, put them in a very moderate oven, and bake
slowly until thoroughly dried and a golden brown, take
them from the fire, dust them thickly with fine salt, turn
them on a cool dish, and stand in a cold place.
BILLS OF FARE
It is frequently a great convenience to housekeepers to
have arranged for them a few simple and elaborate bills of
fare. The first to act as guides for the family table, the
second to assist in arranging company luncheons and
An appropriate and healthful bill of fare implies both
taste and discrimination. A heavy soup should never be
served where a large dinner is to follow. A clear, light
soup should always precede a heavy course dinner. This
may be preceded by raw oysters or grape fruit and followed
by fish. Potatoes of some kind should always accom-
pany the fish. Radishes, gherkins, salted almonds, olives
and those dishes considered appetizers should be placed on
the table immediately after the fish dishes are removed.
Light entries, such as sweetbreads, croquettes, or meat
patties, may follow fish, then the substantial dish, such as
beef, veal, mutton, poultry, etc. , with two accompanying
vegetables. A service of an acid sherbet or punch now
prepares the palate for a more perfect enjoyment of the
game course. Blackbirds, reedbirds or any small birds
may be served with the salad, but duck, woodcock, snipe
or partridge should be served as a course with baked
macaroni. Then the salad, a plain lettuce with French
dressing, a water cracker, and a small bit of old cheese.
Now the desserts, puddings or ice cream, then the fruit,
nuts, raisins, candies, and last the coffee, which should be
very strong and served in small cups.
172 BILLS OF FARE
The following simple bills of fare are arranged from
dishes the recipes of which are given in the body of the
book ; each day contains both a luncheon and a supper in
order to accommodate those persons who dine in the
middle of the day and those who dine in the evening.
Spring Bills of Fare
Oatmeal, Sugar and Cream
Fried Brook Trout Stewed Potatoes
Broiled Lamb Chops, Tomato Sauce
Parker House Rolls
Preserved Ginger Wine Biscuit
Cream of Asparagus Soup
Braised Beef's Tongue Potato Puff
Spinach, Egg Sauce
Lettuce Salad, French Dressing
Orange Bavarian Cream
Thin Slices of Cold Tongue Water-cress
Milk Biscuit Honey
BILLS OF FARE 173
Spring Bills of FoLre— Continued
Hominy, Sugar and Milk
Shirred Eggs Plain Muffins
Fish Cutlets, Cream Sauce
Sliced Cucumbers Brown Bread
Boiled Leg of Mutton, Caper Sauce
Boiled Rice Stewed Tomatoes
Salad of Water-cress
Thin Slices of Cold Mutton Mint Sauce
Preserved Cranberries Apees
174 BILLS OF FARE
Spring Bills of Fare-^Continued
Wheat Granules, Sugar and Cream
Beauregard Eggs Rice Muffins
Fried Oysters Water-cress
Lemon Jelly New York Cookies
Clear Soup with Green Peas
Roasted Chicken Giblet Sauce
Bermuda Potatoes, Parsley Sauce Cauliflower
Chicken Salad Milk Biscuit
Preserves Rolled Jelly Cake
BILLS OF FARE 175
Spring Bills of Fare—Continued
Moulded Farina, Whipped Cream
Creamed Fish Milk Biscuit
Pur^ of Vegetables
Irish Stew Boiled Rice
Fricassee of Oysters Tea Rolls
Canned Peaches Water Crackers
176 BILLS OF FARE
Summer Bills of Fare
Oak Flakes, Whipped Cream
Broiled Tomatoes, Cream Sauce
Deviled Crabs Brown Bread
Panned Spring Chicken, Cream Sauce
New Potatoes Asparagus
Lettuce Salad, French Dressing
Strawberry Ice Cream
Lobster, Terrapin Style Milk Biscuit
BILLS OF FARE 177
Summer Bills of Fare — Continued
Wheat Granules, Cream
Parsley Omelet, Plain Muffins
Creamed Sweetbreads Stuffed Potatoes
Thin Bread and Butter
Sand Clams on the Half Shell
Spring Lamb, Mint Sauce
New Potatoes Peas
Lettuce Salad, French Dressing
Sheep's Tongues in Jelly Water-cress
Thin Bread and Butter
178 BILLS OF FARE
Summer Bills of Fare — Continued
Boiled Rice, Cream
Broiled Tomatoes Pop-Overs
Mayonnaise of Peas on Lettuce Leaves
Brown Bread and Butter
Breaded Cutlets, Tomato Sauce
Peas String Beans
Mayonnaise of Cauliflower
Corn Oysters Sliced Tomatoes
Fruit Sponge Fingers
BILLS OF FARE 179
Summer Bills of Fare — Continued
Broiled Chicken Sliced Tomatoes
Rice Muffins Coffee
Panned Tomatoes, Cream Sauce
Cream of Tomato Soup
Stewed Cucumbers Mashed Potatoes
Corn on Cob
Lettuce Salad, French Dressing
Cold Boiled Tongue, Tomato Salad
Parker House Rolls
BILLS OF FARE
A\itumn Bills of Fare
Cream of Potato Soup
Baked Fish, Egg Sauce
Lettuce Salad, French Dressing
Com Pudding Milk Biscuit
BILLS OF FARE 181
Autumn Bills of FaLre — Continued
Wheat Granules, Cream
Broiled Calf s Liver Coarse Meal Bread
Breaded Tomatoes Fried Egg Plant
Thin Bread and Butter
Pur6e of Carrots
Roast Duck, Olive Sauce
New Turnips, Browned
Boiled Rice Corn Pudding
Mayonnaise of Tomatoes
Peach Short Cake
Stewed Oysters Hot Com Bread
Fruit Berwick Sponge Cake